Manaslu Circuit Trek with Nar Phu Valley: Enter into Remote Phungin-Monastery
24 Aug 2024 Chandra Gurung
Nar Phu Valley is the must-stop village in your Kang La Pass trek at an altitude of over 4,000 m. The clustered signs of life at Naar village, Nar Phedi, and Phu village are a primary attraction one can have in this heart of Manang, other than your usual Manaslu Circuit Trek.
The lost valley of Nar-Phu, in its own regional practice, is influenced by Bhotia culture. A special ACAP permit is required to access the remote part of the Manang district.
People in Naar and Phu villages
You get to meet several locals from Naar village throughout your trek, most of them have the resilient spirit of this remote Khampa community. Most of the community writes Lama, Gurung, and Ghale as their surname.
Around 100 traditional mud and stone houses firmly adjusted together, with the spirit of communal development. Every day, villagers recite the mantra of Om Mane Peme Om and offer prayers in their monastery for the protection and prosperity of the village.
The magic of Nar village at 4200 meters altitude and Phu around 4000 m is best described when exploring their rural lifestyle. The isolated location of the village does not limit its villagers from interacting with the tourists. In fact, they bestow love on their most welcomed guests, anyone who steps into their village, to know about their culture and lifestyle.
The daily life of locals in the cold weather passes on with their chores like animal rearing, making wool carpets, and others. The sound of horses carrying the load is mesmerizing, and they do this all the way to sustain the lifestyle in the village.
Phungin Monastery in Nar Phu Valley
Phungin Monastery is a multi-tiered Tibetan architecture monastery found within the Nar Phu valley. The pinnacles, or tserings, atop the monastery’s roof, are another important architectural feature of Phungin monastery.
The divine pillars, colorful entrance paintings, crafts, and religious austerity are evident on the doorsteps of the monastery. They are built to ward off any unwanted evil spirits from entering the periphery of Phungin monastery, like every other Tibetan monastery.
A nun spoke about the beauty and added how the yellow curtains are used as the color of wisdom, enlightenment, and the sun. It is a symbol of respect to the particular deity in Nar Phu village
The interior of the Phungin monastery is adorned with intricate murals, thangkas (Tibetan scroll paintings), and religious symbols. The color comes alive with a prominence of red, white, blue, yellow, and orange tones, white cloth as respect to the deity, infusion of scented candles, and Tibetan dhoop as worship to deities and saints.
There are several altars in the room, with the prominent statue of Buddha and other deities. The incense burners’ fragrance and the wooden chairs with carved backrests are arranged in rows for monks to sit during chanting and meditation. All these visits to high-altitude Phungin Monastery are worth remembering.
Phu village: An Isolated settlement area
Phu village is at around 4.080 meters from the sea level. It lies at the foothills of Mount Himlung, with a dangerous adventure to reach there with a few narrow alleys on rocky crevasses.
Tourism here has opened economic activities in the village. Until one actually reaches the village, one cannot see how these people are living in such a desert-like climate in the Himalayas.
With their determination, craftsmanship, and routine chores to sustain a life in their birthplace, villagers have a prominent lifestyle and belief system. Crafting yak wool and making winter-appropriate clothes in yarn—women are empowered in their traditional looms. Villagers also play Kaunda, small conch shells to refresh after a long day of work.
The contrast of snowy winter morning and the rocky terrain is like night and day but amazing. You see these locals going on the cliff for their work too. It’s a pretty humbling experience to be part of their life and talk about the fragility of the experience in Nar Phu village.
Food and Drinks in Nar Phu Valley
Rice balls and vegetable curry are regular foods of Nar Phu villagers. You get to eat raw and fresh yak meat during festivity and also nettle soup (sisnoo) for nutritional values in Narphu on a cold day. As a tourist exploring Nar Phu, you taste the curries, stews, stir-fried Nepali curry, mutton, yak, pancakes, omelet salad, and homemade dried meats, sukuti.
Butter tea, known as Po Cha in Tibetan, is a savory and salty tea that is the local specialty of the Himalayan village of Naar. The traditional fermented grain-based liquor (beer) known as raksi, made of rice, barley, and fermented millet (Tongba), is worth trying in cold evenings.
Weather in Nar Phu Valley
Weather is as ever-changing as the terrain itself. The houses, well-constructed with mud and supported by each other, are a testament to the ingenuity of the villagers.
Unforgiving landscapes in the Nar Valley show the harsh reality of life, especially in winter, this place is covered with a snow blanket. Regular food items cooked here need to be imported from the lower belt of Manang, and dried seasonal vegetables are used to make hot soup to tackle the cold here.
However, the twinning tower-like views of Manaslu and Annapurna peaks compensate for the struggle of high altitude. The views get more magical with the sound of winds, birds chirping, and soaring up above the clouds.
1. Naar village in Monsoon
The inhabitants of Naar village have the ritual of worshipping for a week in monsoon (June-July) with monks annually. Prayers, good karma, blessings, and a ground-to-earth lifestyle are what the villagers are known for. The fields are green and there is a high possibility that you see Naur (Himalayan blue sheep) here.
You can ask an elderly local travel partner to show you all the famous destinations and get first-hand experience for what you come for. Get the opportunity to drink Tibetan tea with locals at their homes and learn about the history of civilization here in Nar Phu village.
2. Last day in Nar village in Winter
Last day in Nar with cobbled stone alleys and participating in the New Moon ceremony, what else can be more beautiful? The frozen Eden of Nar village amidst the traditional architecture is a testament to the harsh conditions of life on the high mountain. It is one of the highest settlements anywhere in the world.
Staying at a monastery in Nar Phu village
There is a local hydropower station in Naar village where the weather can be mostly foggy. Locals explained how there are time-to-time programs and festivals in this community where people dance as shamans and monks, all dedicated and devoted to their age-old tradition.
1. Satya Monastery (Nar Phedi Gompa)
Nar Phedi Gompa offers a serene environment for meditation and spiritual reflection for the locals in Nar Phu. Locals organize a religious ceremony for a week at this Satye monastery at different times of the year. There is a musical gathering at Nar Phedi, with free tea and snacks near shrines around monsoon, and it happens quite often based on their lunar calendar.
2. Tashi Lhakhang Monastery
Located in Phu Village, Tashi Lhakhang is recognized as one of the 108 great Buddhist monasteries worldwide. Villagers clad in traditional attire greet the tourists and are ready to meet them.
Trekking Route to NarPhu Valley
The first stop is Besisahar if you want to trek directly to Nar Phu Valley. On the first day, the intention is to reach Koto as early as possible.
The starting point of Nar Phu Trek is Koto Manang, We pass through Koto to Meta, the ancient Khamba settlement, and see the beautiful faces of Annapurna. Our primary activity is to explore villages in NarPhu Valley with no rush.
Most of the trekking routes here are rugged and mountainous landscapes, with rivers and riverbeds, forests, and grassland as unique geographical characteristics. It has been commercialized and developed now with the best transport, electricity, Wi-Fi facilities, and trading activities of all time.
1. TIMS checkpoint in Besisahar
TIMS checkpoint in Besisahar for the Annapurna circuit trek permit. Under the TAAN’s permit, start with the colorful prayer flash, unstopping excitement and giggles with friends as you continue to the Danakyu of Manang.
2. Chomchu-Meta village route to NarPhu
Chomchu, the village under the jungle, is the lunch spot for today. The rest house after the waterfall, the steep climb for locals is quite easy but our destination, Meta, is still an hour away.
Following the trekking trail of beautiful purple flowers and rock crevasses, you reach the top at Meta, at around 4.5 hours from Chomchu. When you cross the wooden bridge and then take an uphill climb leaving the river, that’s where the real struggle of the trek begins.
3. Meta to Phu village
Day 2 takes you to the trekking route from Meta to Phu, where trekkers get along with the herders from Nar to have an experience of a kind.
There is a signboard to avoid confusion about where you ought to go on your trek first if it’s Phu village or Naar. With the local guide, the navigation becomes much more confident.
Below you find the Marshyangdi River rapidly flowing through a narrow george. Rivers are raging, and the roads are prone to flooding and landslides.
4. Chyaku, Uibi, and Kang villages before Phoo
Vibes are beautiful in Chyaku village to the next destination, Kyang. We didn’t expect to see such a beautiful village while climbing dry and barren land uphill. The technical route after Kyang was used previously.
Now a safe and easy trail is built. There is the village of Uibi just above the Phoo village, which is green in June and all snowy on the winter trek in Narphu. It is a place where locals keep their grains and cattle.
5. Nar Phedi to Naar village
After you have a steep climb for about 40 minutes from Narphedi, you reach this place (with a hilltop) for, a temporary rest. You can cross this sharp ascent for 1 hour non-stop to reach the Nar village. There are beautiful yak and horse herding fields, just at the base of Himlung Himal.
Talking about their earliest struggle, villagers explained The Chinese Army chased the Khampas, who then ate looted foods of people in Narphu and killed yaks in the forest. Now they find a civilization here.
Kangla Pass trek from Nar Phu Valley
The way from Nar village to Kangla Pass is straight and horizontal. Take a steady pace for about 1.5 hours when you reach a landscape where clouds and fog are everywhere, you can not see above and beyond. It’s only half-way.
There is a freshwater stream as you follow the trail to Kangla Pass, with green, lush grassland with over 1000 yaks grazing. It may drizzle on your way to Kangla Phedi; pack the needed rain and snow gear.
From the ACAP shelter, there is no clear direction, but our Manaslu guide takes you safely to the destination of the day. Small streams merge to form a large stream here; the junction feels like heaven.
Kangla Phedi (4600 to 4700 m) was uphill, you can set up camp here or else cross the pass the same day. You will see the overall clear view of Manang Valley if it’s clear. After crossing the Kang La Pass, you also go to Braga village before returning to Kathmandu and having an adventure of a time.
Conclusion
For more such interesting adventures in the Manang, Annapurna, and Manaslu regions, contact the Himalaya Guide Team.