Peak Climbing? Quick Facts about Mountain to Climb in Nepal

Peak Climbing in Nepal

7 Mar 2024 Chandra Gurung

If you are a mountain lover, what better sport than climbing mountains in Nepal?

Nepal is a renowned peak-climbing destination for adventure enthusiasts. But how do you begin mountain climbing in Nepal?

Confused?

Here is a snapshot of the easiest mountain peak to climb in Nepal. But these Himalayan peaks can be worth a thrilling adventure the next time. Be it the Mahalangur ranges, Annapurna Sanctuary, or the lesser-known Nirekha Peak, learn about mountain peaks in Nepal.

1. Island Peak climbing 

Island Peak’s height is 6,189m above sea level. From Chukkung, you can enjoy the majestic views of the sea of ice, offering magnificent views of Everest and Lhotse. 

Many combine Island Peak climbing with Gokyo-cho la Pass trekking. Complete the island peak trips, the moderately difficult trekking peak starting from the island base camp, through the route of Imja Lake. Island peak trekking permits cost around USD 125 to 250, depending on and off the trekking season.  

Fun facts about Island Peak 

  • Eric Shipton coined the term Island Peak, as it appears to be an island in a sea of ice, back in 1951. 
  • Island Peak was renamed Imja Tse in 1981, but the peak’s old name, Island Peak, reigns yet again. 
  • Island Peak offers the South Face of Lhotse, and this peak is an expedition, not a trekking peak. 

2. Lobuche Peak climbing 

Lobuche Peak is a straightforward peak and, in fact, one of the easiest mountains to climb in Nepal. It is located close to Everest, providing an exceptional front view of the Everest South Face in Nepal. 

Lobuche Peak has two different summits, Lobuche East and West, but Lobuche West is among the rarely climbed summits of the peak because, of the cost (USD 1,500 to USD 2,500+) and challenges from the west summit. The continuous ridge of Lobuche Peak makes it demanding for beginners. 

Lobuche Peak is located near the Khumbu Glacier at an elevation of 6119m. The Lukla-Phakding, an entry hub from Namche Bazar to Lobuche, is the ultimate trekking route for Lobuche East peak climbing. Add an exciting side trail to Everest Base Camp if you are more into spectacular mountain views of the Everest region. 

Quick Facts about Lobuche Peak Climbing 

  • The first ascent of Lobuche East Peak was in 1984 by climbers Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen.
  • The Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit are required to climb Lobuche Peak. 
  • Lobuche Peak Climbing takes around 15 days, with an average of 7 to 9 hours of trekking. 
  • The peak is labeled as both a trekking peak and an expedition peak in Nepal. 
  • Lobuche East is trekking-friendly, with less technical climbing of harnesses, snow crampons, and ropes. 
  • The west summit of Lobuche is as good as the expedition of high-grade mountains in Nepal. 
  • Lobuche Nepal weather is -10° C on average and can get to a maximum cold temperature of -22.6°C (-8.7°F).

 3. Larkya Peak climbing 

Larke Peak Climbing Region ( 6,249 meters / 20,502 feet) is home to Tamang and Sherpa settlement areas, where they practice Tibetan Buddhist culture. The mountain peak in the Manaslu region is less crowded and even home to the ever-present Yaks, snow leopards, and quaint Tibetan villages. 

The challenging mountaineering peak Larkya is located in the Gorkha district of Nepal. It requires a combination of basic mountaineering skills and trekking abilities to reach the top, while also offering astonishing views of Mount Manaslu, the eighth-highest mountain in the world. For around 17 days of the Larke La Peak expedition, one person’s cost is around USD 3400 to USD 4000 in Nepal. 

Key facts about Larke Peak Expedition and climbing 

Larkye Peak climbing region is home to one of the oldest monasteries in Nepal, Rachen Gompa. Also, Serang Gumpa, Shyala Monastery, Mu Gompa, and other Buddhist nunneries are found in the villages of Manaslu. Located in the Gorkha district of Nepal, Larke La Peak is a popular mountain to climb in Nepal. Here are some key facts of Larke Peak Climbing 

  • Climbing Larke Peak is technically challenging for beginners. 
  • Larke Peak climbing requires a route from Soti Khola, following the Manaslu Circuit trek 
  • One needs a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and regular permits like MCAP and ACAP for Larke Peak Summit 2024. 
  • It is strenuous climbing with the use of ice crampons, but it is a rewarding experience.
  • Usually, the 20-day Larke Peak itinerary is rated in the A category. 
  • The Larke Peak Climb Route Map includes Budi Gandaki’s trekking route to reach Larke Peak, one of the mid-Northern Tibetan borders.

 4. Nirekha Peak Climbing

Nirekha Peak is one of the easiest mountains to climb in Nepal. Out of 326 mountain peaks open for climbing in Nepal, Nirekha Peak (6159m) is one to consider in the Khumbu region. It takes 18 to 25 days with basic mountaineering skills to conquer the summit of Nirekha, starting with your arrival in Kathmandu. 

Key facts of Nirekha Peak Climbing 

  • Nirekha Peak is located near Lobuche Peak and just east of Cho-la Col Peak. 
  • Matt Fioretti and Greg Valentine first ascended Nirekha Peak in 2003. 
  • Prior experience with crampons, ice axes, and moderate climbing techniques helps you reach the Nirekha Peak summit. 
  • Nirekha Peak summit is possible within 9 hours of climbing from the ascent of Kanchung base camp (5250m)
  • Another climbing route for Nirekha Peak includes 11 hours of technical climbing from Lake Base Camp (5050 m). 
  • Sagarmatha National Park entry permit fees to ascent the challenging Nirekha peak.
  • Mountaineering license and climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).

5. Mera Peak Climbing 

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, with an elevation of 6,476 m/21,246 feet. One requires strength and cardiovascular training to ascent on Mera Peak. Surprisingly, Mera Peak is suitable for beginners with proper climbing. 

  • Mera Peak is one of the three peak climbing packages in Nepal. 
  • J.O.M Roberts and Sen Tenzing made the first ascent on Mera Peak on May 20, 1953, through the standard Mera La route. 
  • Mera Peak summit is 6,476 m high and is open to trekkers and climbers with their licensed guides. 
  • The Mera Peak trek is not as technically demanding as Everest, but its long summit day makes it hard to climb, requiring strong mental fortitude
  • Climbers require cardiovascular training for reaching significant altitudes and uphill vertical climbing techniques. 
  • Mera Peak is rated an Alpine grade of F with steeps of snow that go up to a 45–50 degree slope, requiring guided ropes and snow axes. 

Moreover, you might want something cool, like True Mera Peak adventure gear, to make your Nepal trekking and tours worthwhile. Mera peak expedition cost can be as good as USD 2400 for 21 days per person, which might come under discount if you have a group of friends to swirl on the peak climbing in Nepal.  Remember to learn basic Nepali phrases when planning your trekking tour in Nepal.