Manaslu Difficulty | How Difficult is Manaslu Trek?

manaslu difficulty to climb

11 Aug 2022 Chandra Gurung

Most climbers have a question: What is the Manaslu circuit trek difficulty(technical) is it to climb Mount Manaslu? It is impossible to say how simple or tough it is to climb an eight-thousand-meter peak. 

Manaslu, at 8,163 meters (26,781 feet), is the seventh highest mountain in the world and one of Nepal’s most distinctive and pursued summits. It is located in the Himalayas’ Mansiri Himal subrange, 64 kilometers (40 miles) east of Annapurna.

Climbing Manaslu is not easy, but many expert mountaineers believe it to be one of the simplest 8-thousand-meter summits to climb after Cho-Oyu, making it a popular training peak for Everest.

It also relies on the climber’s past climbing experiences, weather conditions, age, physical fitness, personal climbing equipment quality, Sherpa guide experience, the operator’s reputation, background, and climbing Nepal season.

On their websites and blogs, many excursion operators and climbers state that climbing Mount Manaslu is a simple task. Climbing Manaslu is far tougher than it looks in many paperwork, promotional brochures, and social media. In truth, none of the 8000m Mountain Expedition climbs is simple.

Mountaineering is one of the most difficult adventure sports, with many climbers dying yearly. In comparison, the Manaslu circuit peak Expedition is regarded as the least difficult of the eight 8000-meter summits in the Nepal Himalayas.

According to the Nepali religion, God resides in the mountains, and by worshipping God, safe passage to the peak is predicted. So, before the circuit treks, we do a pooja/worshipping ritual, hoping for a successful summit. You will spend a day or two in Base Camp acclimatizing, training, and preparing to climb Mt. Manaslu.

Advanced Base Camp Manaslu

Manaslu Advanced Base Camp is located at elevations of 4,600 m/15,091 ft- 4800 m/15748 ft, also known as lower and higher camps. After one or two days of relaxation and preparation at Mt. Manaslu Base Camp, you depart for the first and second base camps to acclimate. It takes an average of 2 hours for a climbing Sherpa guide and 3 hours for you to reach Camp-I from the Advance base camp. 

After 45 minutes of rock boulders of varying sizes and a steep trail of 20-25 degrees rising, you arrive at the bottom of a rough section. From this point on the Mt. Manaslu climbing route, you must scale a 75-80m steep stone wall with a 45-50 degree grade. 

Crossing this terrain and reaching the crampons point takes roughly 20-25 minutes. From here, a 2-hour snow slope of 30-35 degrees leads to Camp-1, located at 5,800 m/190,29 feet. 

Due to the limited room for numerous tents, Camp-I is typically pitched in higher and lower camps, which are 100m apart and a half-hour walk apart. Avalanches and rockfalls are usually not a problem at Camp-I.

When you’re a climber of ordinary stamina, it takes around four hours to ascend from camp 1 to camp 2. It is determined by your acclimatization, weather conditions, physical conditioning, and walking speed. 

After 30 minutes of climbing uphill on a 25-30 degree ice wall slope and then another 30 minutes of tough climbing, you reach parts that provide obstacles to climbers. The trip between Camps 1 and 2 is the most difficult leg of the Manaslu circuit treks peak expedition. 

Such Manaslu climbing route contains several ice seracs and crevasses. To bridge these crevasses, the climbing rope fitting team repairs the ladder 4-5 times (depending on the climbing season and year).

The first, second, and fourth ladders are on flat Steep within 3-5 meters of the Crevasse. At the same time, the third is fixed around 70 degrees of Steep Crevasse and is generally about 6m long (the size of the crevasses can change in each season, so this is approximate and for common guidelines only). 

Camp 2 on Mt. Manaslu is also located below and above the snow wall. Camp II is at 6,400m/20,997ft and is as safe as the campgrounds. There is old and new snow between those camps, and our Manaslu climbing Sherpa guides fix the rope into two lines, one for ascending and one for descending, throughout the entire path.

How Tough Is It to Climb Manaslu?

Starting with the fact that Manaslu is an 8-thousand-meter-high peak, it is clear that it will be challenging. Climbing is reserved for climbing experiences mountaineers, and technical abilities like glacier trekking, crampons, fixed ropes, sleeping bag, and other peak climbing gear are required to conquer this tough yet rewarding peak.

The major problem on Manaslu, however, is the height, and it is one of the simplest 8-thousand-meter climbs after Cho Oyu, with reduced avalanche danger than other summits of comparable altitude.

What Preparation Do I Require for Summit Manaslu?

Climbing Manaslu requires a high degree of physical fitness and technical peak climbing ability. You must also be comfortable with your equipment before the climb because there is no space for improvisation while climbing that high in adverse weather conditions.

Preparation Advice from a Nepalese Guide.

  • Before your ascent, practice on difficult glacier courses.
  • To adjust to the high elevation alpine diet, eat healthful, uncooked, bland foods.
  • Prepare for the equipment by walking slowly and steadily for 2 hours with long-sleeved and heavy boots at least three times each week; at high altitudes, you will need to maintain this type of rhythm to conserve energy.
  • Practice hiking with a 15kg backpack, glasses, buff, and headwear so that when you reach high altitude and harsh weather conditions, your items are already known and don’t cause discomfort.
  • Go to the top of the nearest tallest mountain and summit with a guide to get a sense of the guide-climber connection and to assess your sensitivity to altitude.
  • On all Manaslu expeditions, oxygen is frequently accessed, and Diamox is commonly administered; nevertheless, it should only be used in moderation because it causes dehydration.

How Is the Weather in Manaslu Circuit?

The weather conditions on Manaslu change with the seasons. The moisture in the Kali Gandaki River basin causes large snowfalls throughout the Nepal spring (March to June), more than on most other mountains in the vicinity.

After the monsoon, the terrain in Nepal’s autumn (September to December) is rockier, with only areas of snow and rainwater lakes. This is often regarded as the optimum season to climb Manaslu.

What Gear Is Needed to Climb Manaslu?

  • Climbing shoes
  • Camp Boots with Insulation
  • Ice axe and crampons
  • Down jacket
  • Gloves for mountaineering
  • Goggles
  • Harness
  • Carabiners
  • Ascenders/Descenders
  • Cords and fixing ropes
  • Backpack
  • Packs of water bottles
  • Headlamp
  • Camping equipment, such as sleeping bags may also be required depending on the adventure.

Climbing Mount Manaslu

Mount Manaslu going from Camp 2 (C2) to Camp 3 (C3) is a rather safe and simple climb. This portion takes roughly three hours to climb for ordinary stamina climbers. After approximately an hour of trekking over the 30-degree snow slope, you will reach the rope fixing portion, which is around 150-200 m high vertical ice slope and takes about 45 minutes to climb. 

After over this part of the 45-degree ice wall, you will arrive at a level region that is only 30 minutes walk from Camp 3. (C3). There are also two parking places within 10-15 minutes walking distance. Camp-3 on Manaslu is located at an elevation of 6,800m / 22,310 ft.

For normal stamina climbers, climbing from Camp 3 to Camp 4 takes roughly five hours. This timeframe might vary depending on how many climbers are present to perform their climbing at any given moment. 

It may take 6-8 hours if numerous climbers are ascending and descending and traffic is heavy. The climbing route is a steep snow wall with a restricted Anker that can only be used by one climber at a time to ascend or descend. There is a 50-60m long level section at the end of the ascent from Camp 3 to Camp 4.

The Manaslu climbing route from the fourth camp to the summit of Mount Manaslu is easy and safe. According to our prior experience, over 60% of climbers need oxygen in this section. That might be why climbers believe it is simple to ascend. 

Start about 23:00 p.m. to 00:00 a.m. for the Manaslu summit aim of 06:00 to 07:00 a.m. That implies the distance from Camp 4 to Mt. Manaslu’s summit is an average of 07 hours of climbing distance – not fixed to any climber and all approximate to a climber with average climbing stamina.

After approximately an hour of ascending from the C4 on the flat right side (southeast), you will reach the vertical snow wall climbing location, roughly 45-50m to even 60 degrees of slope. After passing this vertical snow wall with a secured static rope, you ascend another hour-level trail. 

Almost from here to just beyond Manaslu’s false summit (8090m), it takes around 4 hours at an average rate of 30-40 degrees vertical route. It is, nevertheless, a fully safe way to climb. From the false peak to the true summit of Mt. Manaslu, ascend another 100m of level and 50-60m slope of 30-35 to stand on top of Mt. Manaslu’s real summit at 8,156 m/ 26,759ft.

Because severe winds might occur on some days, the rope mending staff always repairs the rope line for safety. The area at the summit of Mt. Manaslu is quite limited, making it difficult to accommodate more than two climbers. This is why there is occasionally heavy traffic in summit queues.

If you have strong stamina, you may descend to Camp 2 or perhaps Camp 1 the same day you reach the peak. If you have ordinary stamina, you can descend to Camp 3, Camp 1, and the Advance Base Camp the next day.

In the End!!

Climbing the Manaslu trek is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. It will not only let you take your high-altitude peak climbing to the next level and provide you with breathtaking Himalaya vistas, but it will also allow you to visit local communities and immerse yourself in Nepal culture. Once you’ve reached the stunning Manaslu peak, it’s all upwards from there, which means you’re one step closer to realizing your Everest ambition.