Lost in the Tales in Yaruphant: A Gurung Elder’s Stories on the Manaslu Circuit
13 Dec 2024 Chandra Gurung
There is a memorable encounter from my Manaslu Circuit trek. It was years ago but it still feels vibrant. When I first started trekking on the route of Yaruphant, I encountered an old wise man, whose tale is still running through my mind.
In the context is the Gurung old guy who smoked Bokkhu. He continues to tell the story of his Gurung village, on the banks of the Budi Gandaki river. We listened to it with great pride, it was not the first time we heard about the village but there was something in his voice. Though his name was unknown to us, his story sounded pretty familiar.
Gurung People in Manaslu
“The Gurung people, previously known as the ‘Gyarong’ came to Nepal in the 6th century only to settle here by the 7th century.” says a Bokkhu-smoking Old Friend who crossed paths on the route to Yaruphant.
It was not easy for the Tibetan exile community to settle in the distant land. Over time, they adapted and had a cultural transition with mixed of Buddhism, Hinduism, and Animism. This syncretic faith has shaped their worldview, customs, and traditions.
What else did he say? If you ask, that weathered man had a story of the struggle of his own to earn a decent life in a remote village. But he was grateful to be part of such a good community that celebrates happiness together and whose celebration is just so beautiful.
He spoke of his village, a few kilometers from Yaruphant, where the Gurung people, a proud and resilient tribe, had lived for centuries. In this conversation, he recounted tales of their ancestors, warriors who fought valiantly to protect their land. He spoke of their traditions, their festivals, and their deep-rooted connection to nature.
What is Bokkhu?
When we asked about his smoke, he said it was a smoke-browned cape called Bokkhu. He shared stories of hardship and resilience, of surviving harsh winters and enduring the relentless monsoon rains. Yet, his voice was filled with a quiet pride, a testament to the indomitable spirit of his people.
From the Gurung tale, we heard everything we need to know about Jagat and the surrounding villages of Yaruphant. Walking further, we never knew this sudden connection could make us wait for extraordinary stories to be told.
Usually at his young age when he was one of the shepherds, he, his friends, and fellow shepherds were clad in smoke. It is sweet complex and has a cinnamon hint says the man.
Cantilever bridge in Yaruphant Dharche
The roads are still being upgraded in the Manaslu Circuit trek. There are narrow Manaslu foothills, suspension bridges, and even cantilever bridges to continue the trek. Similar is a Yaru Bagar cantilever bridge at a cliff face on the Budi Gandaki River gorge, which facilitates local transportation in the region.
Traditional clothing and accessories of the Gurung people
From the look of the man, we could barely say they have this amazing traditional dress. They only wear it on special occasions. Unlike Sherpa in the higher belt, they always have colorful dresses, Baku.
For Men
1. Bhangra
Bhangra is a cultural costume of the Gurung Community. Traditionally, Gurung men wore Bhangra to help them carry various items like food, tools, or anything that. The white colored cotton or wool that Gurung wore over their traditional dress. white cloth tied across the chest and open like a bag in the back (to carry things)
2. Kachhad
Gurung men wear a short sarong/kilt that looks like a white wrap-around skirt called Kachhad (similar to dhoti.)
3. Bhoto
A bhoto is a sleeveless vest worn over the upper body. It can be made of thick cotton or wool and may feature embroidery, or decorative patterns.
5. Topi
Topi is a typical Nepali cap that completes the Gurung men’s attire.
For Women
1. Ghalek:
Ghalek is a traditional Gurung shawl worn diagonally from the shoulder to the opposite waist. It is dropped over the shoulders for warmth.
2. Lungi:
A long, pleated skirt that is typically black or blue. This skirt is an essential part of the Gurung women’s outfit and is known for its vibrant colors and patterns.
3. Chit ko Gunyo Cholo
This is a long-sleeved top worn over the lungi, adding to the overall elegance of the attire.
4. Patuki
Patuki is a belt we wear under Chaubandi cholo and to secure lungi or fariya. Girls wearing Patuki on Chhit ko gunyo cholo look pretty beautiful. Each girl has a unique color choice for Patuki to match her dress to look beautiful at the Rodi event.
5. Hanki (Headscarf)
When a Gurung lady wears a traditional scarf “Hanki” that head wraps with her braids makes her look so pretty. It is also a practical choice as this protects her head.
6. Accessories
Gurung women like to dress up and wear gold earrings, necklaces made of turquoise and coral, bangles, anklets, and nose rings as their festive accessories. The “kantha muga ko mala,” made from red coral stones, is also commonly worn.
Yarunphant to Jagat
Manaslu Circuit Trek from the very first days from Yaruphant to Jagat, holds a precious memory. You walk for around 13 km before you finally reach Jagat at an elevation of 1,410 meters (4,628 feet) from the sea level.
Jagat located at an elevation of approximately, we valued the experiences along the way. As a weary traveler, we look forward to the moments in the quaint village, with its stone houses.
There was an old-world charm in narrow winding lanes on the route. The gentle murmur of the Budi Gandaki River added a sense of calmness, peace, and contentment. If the journey is so beautiful we can expect how great views of Manaslu look as you pass Lho and other villages on the circuit trek.
From Yarunphant, you will generally head north along the Budhi Gandaki River. You simply follow the river upstream which guides you to Jagat. including rocky paths and sections with steep ascents. We also encounter fields with rice and millet and suspension bridges are another common angle to this trek. Jagat village: A wonderful Start of Manaslu Circuit Trek
Jagat is a Sanskrit word that means “world” but it can further be bifurcated into two,
Jagat = Jan (“to be born” or “to produce”) + gat (gone,” “past,” or “over”)
“Jagat” is a Sanskrit word signifying the cyclical nature of existence. It embodies the idea of birth, growth, and eventual decay. This concept is mirrored in the village’s landscape, where water streams from various sources converge and then flow onward.
The recently discovered Captain Waterfall near Jagat has become a popular attraction for trekkers. Visitors along the Budhi Gandaki River can be mesmerized by the sheer power and beauty of the surrounding villages.
Way of life of lower Manaslu people (Mostly Gurung)
The Gurung community is organized into clans. They traditionally prefer cross-cousin marriages and have vibrant social gatherings known as Rodi, where young men and women engage in singing and dancing.
The Gurung diet has evolved, with rice becoming a staple food. Traditional dishes include Mohi Chop, a blend of chili, garlic, salt, and skimmed milk, and Sukuti (dried meat, usually buffalo).
You could have encountered various small shrines and mani stones along the trail since your steps at Soti Khola. People here believe in spirits and offer prayers in such a way as to prevent evil spirits from entering the village.
They have strong trading relationships with neighboring ethnic groups like Thakalis and Tibetans.
Drinking Fermented Tongba
Tongba is a traditional alcoholic beverage especially popular among the Gurung and Limbu communities. Also known as tumba this drink is often made with fermented millet.
The Gurung old man had also asked us to join him on his way back home to sip his famous fermented millet drink. But we said next time. As the wind blew stronger, we took our night stay at Jagat. We were lucky enough to be served with this freshly prepared millet beer (tongba), which warmed our hearts with moments of pleasure.
Conclusion
There are so many times when we pause to listen to a tale of a local and listen to the music unheard with the hills of Manaslu. And in those moments, we truly connect to the nature and people living here. We find solace and inspiration in the rhythms of the tales of the Gurung community and neighboring ethnic groups. For more such interesting experiences at Manaslu, you can directly contact the Himalaya Guide Team.
