Manaslu West Face: For Climbers Who Dare: Nepal’s Ultimate Challenge

12 Apr 2024 Chandra Gurung

How many different climbing routes does Manaslu have? Well, we will talk about that too in the blog section. But before, let’s start with the Manaslu West face, which people did not know existed. 

Early in 1950, renowned explorer H.W. Tilman discovered the Manaslu West Face Route, citing that “it is impossible without wings.” To date, it is one of the most formidable and prestigious climbing challenges on Manaslu. 

The legendary mountaineer Reinhold Messner made his first ascent on the West Face summit in 1972. He was part of an Austrian expedition at the Manaslu summit at the time. He changed what was believed to be improbability, setting milestones for those who dared. 

Historical Context of Manaslu West Face 

The West Face of Manaslu was labeled as perceived improbability in the 1950s by renowned explorer H.W. Tilman. Even the Manaslu Reconnaissance Party of the Japanese Alpine Club (1952), led by Dr. Kinji Imanishi, believed the same. 

But after the summit of Manaslu West Face, by mountaineer Reinhold Messner, on the West Face, the first new route to Manaslu came alive. Afterward, French climbers Pierre Beghin and Bernard Muller, marking a significant achievement in 1981, continued to stand out in the challenge to the Manaslu summit from the lesser-known West Face. 

The extreme challenges of Manaslu West Face require extreme technicality, physical stamina, endurance, and mental agility to conquer, which were once discouragingly considered impossible. Though West Face set a challenging mark with steep ice and rock walls, Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski in 1984 set a record for its first winter ascent. 

A historical narrative of Manaslu West face

The West Ridge of Manaslu at an altitude of around 7,000 meters (22,966 feet)—a rocky outcrop known as the Kasa-iwa (Umbrella Rock)—was more difficult. To overcome Kasa-iwa, the ultimate challenge, climbers first descended about 100 meters (328 feet) down the 60-degree hard ice wall to the edge of a hanging glacier. 

From this precarious position, they had to cross the 3,500-meter (11,483-foot) drop to the moraine of the Domen Khola valley below. The ice on the west face was hard due to the strong wind, but we took steps to avoid the repeated swings of the ice axe. The steep terrain on the west ridge was crossed over using ice pitons and ladder techniques. The Kasa-Iwa rock has grade 4 difficulty, as the hanging glacier has extreme altitude before finally reaching the summit plateau.

The final camp on the summit (CAMP V) was established after 10 days of struggle at an altitude of 7,360 meters (24,150 feet) on the plateau. Nine climbers, including three route-makers, two summit aspirants, and four Sherpas, came to this camp. 

Despite unfavorable weather forecasts two determined summit climbers set out at 5 a.m. on May 17, making their way across the plateau’s sinking knee-deep. When their oxygen nearly depleted at 12.15 pm, they triumphantly summited atop the 8,156-meter (26,759-foot) and inspired a new generation of climbers, by making routes on treacherous ice and snow fields. 

Why isn’t Manaslu West Face frequently climbed? 

The Manaslu West Face has a North-west wall, a 4,000 m (13000 ft) high, precipitous and dangerous wall of ice and rock. Such a steep rock and icy wall inclines about 40° on average, making the summit of Manaslu from the west route more technically demanding. 

The West Face is part of the Manaslu Conservation Area, which was established in 1998 to protect the unique biodiversity and cultural heritage of the region. The reason that West Face is less frequently climbed is because of its technical difficulty, and less predictable weather conditions as compared to the North-Eastern route, the standard route to summit Manaslu. 

The technical challenges of Manaslu West Face do not end here. It has frequent avalanches, with deep snow that is more life-threatening, and yes, for “Death Mountain,” Manaslu fatalities have always been a triggering sign. The lower west ridge was too steep and dangerous for porters carrying loads.

The West Face of Manaslu has treacherous terrain and hazardous rock faces, such as Kasa-iwa Rock Face. Veteran climbers have managed to establish a safe route and have a strategic camp location to support future climbers. Now the time-consuming process of expanding bolts, pitons, and fixed ladders is technically solved to some extent if the climbers dare for the Manaslu West summit. 

Manaslu West Face: Pioneer ascents on the Summit 

Pierre Beghin and Bernard Muller set a standard West Face route in the 1981 French expedition. Every step was dangerous and uncertain, with the icy rocks, but the challenging approach, with limited infrastructure and support, was made, creating history in the winter. 

With the intent to establish 7-8 camps under 1000 meters of elevation, the French team began. They made the most of the upper plateau as Base Camp, as they initially intended. However, because of the less developed infrastructure, they faced issues supplying essentials to the Advanced Base Camp. 

Here is how the camping strategy led the team to a successful Manaslu West Face Summit

Difficulties on the North-West Wall of Manaslu West Face 

The North-west wall is a challenging obstacle in the hazardous conditions of Manaslu when summiting from the west face. 

• Frequent avalanches and deep snow make crossing difficult. 
• Block avalanches damaged fixed ropes and snow anchors on the summit
• A major obstacle is the Kasa-iwa Rock Face 
• Steep section with extreme avalanche danger above Kasa-iwa.
• It took more than 20 days to establish a route through a diedre (re-entrant) on the left side.
• Rock Ridge between Camp IV and the summit proved to be too difficult and time-consuming.
• Steep and dangerous lower west ridge for porters, costing more than the standard cost (around $11,500) 
• It passes through the hanging glacier on the South-West Wall.
• Manaslu has a high fatality rate (around 9 deaths per 100 summits) and West Face is deadly for the true summit 

Standard Route for Manaslu Expedition 

Manaslu’s standard route out of the 6 different routes is the North-East Ridge. On the standard North East Col Route of Manaslu Summit, we utilize 4 camps at different altitudes. 

Base Camp (4800m/15,750ft) 

The starting point is the Manaslu base camp at an altitude of 4800m/15,750ft above sea level. Climbers start the expedition and spend most of their time in the base camp with tents, dining areas, and other required facilities. 

Camp 1 (5700m/18,700ft) 

As you take a 4-hour climb from Base Camp, you reach Camp, which involves crossing mixed terrain, including glaciers, crevasses, and ice sections.

Camp 2 (6400m/21,000ft) 

The climb from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the most technical section, including the steep ice sections, ladder crossings, and crossing the icefall area. It takes around 5 hours to reach Camp 2 from the North East summit. 

Camp 3 (6800m/22,310ft) 

The climbing distance from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is shorter, taking 2-3 hours, but technically, it crosses crevasses and steep snow slopes.

Camp 4 (7500m/24,606ft) 

It’s a long and strenuous day, with steep snow slopes and the risk of avalanches when you approach camp 4, which is at a height of 7500 m. Climbers are now entering the “death zone” with low oxygen levels, where the need for supplementary oxygen may be required. 

Summit (8156m/26,759ft) 

The final push to the summit typically begins around 1:00 am, with climbers aiming to reach the summit between 7 and 10 am. The climb involves exposed ridges, false summits, and challenging terrain. It takes approximately 16–17 hours round trip from Camp 4.

Throughout the climb, climbers rely on experienced Sherpa guides who fix ropes, break trails, and provide assistance to help reach the summit of the world’s 8th-highest mountain.

Manaslu Summit Controversy

For years, there has been a debate about whether climbers have actually reached the true summit of Manaslu or stopped short at a lower point. In 2019, Nirmal Purja and Stefi Troguet were among those who were believed to have reached the true summit. However, it was later revealed that their summit videos were not taken at the highest point of the mountain

The debate then began about whether the climbers who claimed to have summited were later found to have stopped at a col (a pass between two mountain peaks) and not reached the true highest point. Then, the Himalayan Database determined that only 15 out of 175 claimants had truly reached Manaslu’s highest summit.

The Manaslu summit controversy was finally settled in 2021 when drone footage clearly showed the true summit is 20-25 meters away from the “fore summit” (a point often mistaken for the highest point). But climbers stopped at the final section to avoid the technical ridge climbing, as it was extremely dangerous.